play doh crazy cuts etarigan Monday, January 9, 2017


andrew perlich: allright, welcome everybody to google's kitchensink, the download on food-- google'steaching kitchen. my name is andrew perlich. i'm the cafe manager hereat kitchen sink cafe. and it is my distinctpleasure to welcome today chef tony gemignani over here. in chef tony's 24years making pizza, he's become an 11-time pizzaworld champion, including

being the first andonly triple crown winner for baking atthe international pizza championships in lecce, italy. he's the chef and ownerof tony's pizza napolitana in san francisco. you may have seenhim on jay leno. you may have seen him alsoon "good morning america," and you may have alsoseen him as a regular on the food network.

he's going to show us howto make some pizzas today, so everybody please join me inwelcoming chef tony gemignani. [applause] tony gemignani: who likes pizza? who loves pizza? nice. 24 years ago is when i started. anybody make dough at home? anyone trying to makepizza dough at home?

some of you? most of you? so that's always a challenge--making pizza dough at home. wanna hold that for me? all right. [laughter] don't get scared. don't throw it back. i'm going to teach you guyshow to make a basic recipe.

this is the a dough recipethat i use in my restaurant, at tony's, and actuallyall my restuarants. it's a little different,but it's about 99% there. we're going to use astarter in this dough. so if some of you don'tknow what a starter is, we're going to usea poolish, which is a starter that has equalparts flour and water in it. so if i were to take one poundof flour, one pound of water, and a minute amount ofyeast, mix it and let

it sit on my counterfor 18 hours, it would turn out like this. you smell it. it's acidic, slightly sour. if i use less water, itcould be less acidic. we're going to use thismass into our batch to make our dough muchmore exciting, much more flavorful, much more aromatic. so in the book"the pizza bible,"

we talk a lot about starters. it's the pizzeria of tomorrow. and it's not reallythe pizzeria of today. when you think of that'80s and '90s pizzeria of just flour, salt,yeast, and water, things have progressedquite a bit. so you've heard, i'm sure,we're from the bay area. sourdough starters--there's ways to make this without using yeast.

you can actually ferment itover six days, seven days. but really, when i cook,i really look for balance. i'm not lookingfor a starter that really is in theback of your mouth and all you taste is starter. i'm looking at acomplex dough that marries with the sauce, thattakes you to the cheese, and you find those ingredients. you know, when i make mypizzas, and if you ever

been to tony's pizza napolitanaor any of my other places, it's always about balance. if it's sweet, itcould be spicy. it's salty. you always have this three tofour different flavor profiles. and you're going to seethis in a couple pizzas we're going to make today. so we have our kitchenaid mixer. we have 100% 00 flour.

it's my 00 flour. but it's a high gluten,high protein flour. a lot of times when you'remaking pizza at home, you grab all-purposeflour, which is typically the wrong flour to grab. in the pizza business,we don't typically grab all-purpose flour. we look for a proteinthat's in a range of 12.5% to 14.6% protein.

so when you're shopping, whenyou're looking for a good flour to use, look for highgluten, high protein flour. i added my flourhere, and we have a few different ingredients. we have oil in front ofme, malt, salt, yeast, and then we have our starter. we have two water mixtures, awarm water mixture and almost an ice-cold water mixture. so we have our yeast here.

i'm going to warm it upin my warm water mixture. we're going to do aslow rise, meaning that am i going to make thisdough today and eat it today? no. do i want to eat thisdough in 24 hours? that's good. if i want to eat it in36 hours, that's better. if i want to eat it in 48hours, that's even way better. so why do i want to eat olddough compared to young dough?

one of the worst things youcan do in the pizza business, or when you're making pizza athome, is to make dough today and eat it today. well, yeast feedson simple sugars. in our flour, we haveabout 1% to 3% simple sugar already in our flour, meaningthat if our yeast goes in there, it's going tofind something to eat and it'll grow. so it's alreadypresent in flour.

one of the rules of thumb whenyou're cooking at 450, 500, 520, like a lot of our homeovens are typically at, we want to use a browning agent. now what's a browning agent? a sugar, a malt, a honey,a molasses-- something that can help your dough brown. it's very important. one of the ingredientsthat you tend not to see when you'remaking pizzas at home

is a browning agent. why am i using malt? i'm using a low diastatic malt. it's a derivative of barley. it's more natural. i like the flavorprofile better. could you use sugar? say i can't findany powdered malt. could i use sugar?

yeah, and if youwere to use sugar, you could use aboutthree times as much sugar as you would malt. malt's pretty strong. so what am i going to do? i'm going to malt my flour. so i'm adding myflour to my malt. i'm going to blendthat up a little bit. i just woke up myyeast in warm water.

yeast lies dormantwhen it's cold. it wakes up whenit's in warm water. but i want to wakeit up and then slow it down with cold water. why didn't i add mymalt to my warm water? it's llike givingthe yeast a red bull. i don't want to wakeup the yeast that much and get it going crazy. i want to actually letmy dough rise slower,

and i want my yeastto eat slower. so we have two watermixtures, cold and warm. i'm going to add myyeast mixture sure to it. i added this first becauseif there was any leftover yeast in the bowl, i can alwayswash it out with my cold water. does that make sense? sometimes you'llsee a little bit. i'm going to add mywater, wait a little bit. i can put it up a little bit.

anyone have a spatula? somebody grab me a spatula. so as this is mixing,i could stop it, bring everything to the middle. does anyone have akitchenaid at home? anyone make their doughby hand, old school? kind of do both. i'm going to add therest of my water. so i added my water.

i added my yeast. i have a few ingredientsleft-- salt-- i'm going to keep my yeastand salt away from each other. they don't like each other. they actually hate each other. salt can kill yeast, so ilike to keep them separated. we have our oil. i'm going to addthat at the very end. oil is a binding agent.

it emulsifies. i don't want to add my oil firstbecause it won't let my water hydrate into my flour. and that's important. but i have this starter here. when am i goingto add my starter? my starter's pretty tacky. i'm going to go ahead andwet my hands, stop my mix, and go ahead and add mystarter in the middle.

so why are we adding starter? i just said it a minute ago. complexity, flavor--you guys need a coffee. you guys aren't awake yet. you're just really hungry. i got on the road at 4:40to see you guys today. yeah, right? people thought i was nuts. i had to go to san franscisco,san francisco to here.

ok, so i'm going topick it up a little bit. i'm going to add-- my flour'sincorporating in my dough. everything's kindof coming together. about two minutes-- so whilethis is mixing, any questions? audience: [inaudible]? tony gemignani: we'regetting close to high 60s. with that poolish, with thestarter, we had over 65% hydration. it's a good question.

so in the bread world or in thepizza world-- mostly the bread world-- we're always tryingto get super hydrated. it's cool to say i havea 75% hydrated dough. what does that mean? more-- i'm goingto add my salt now. the more water ihave in my dough, does it mean it'sa wetter dough? it does, but not duringthe baking process. during the baking process, ifyou really want a crispy pizza,

you want to actuallytry to achieve more water in your dough. so you're always trying toget more water in your dough. it's one of those things. as a baker, you're alwaystrying to go up a percent or 2%. i just want from 65% to 66%. what's hydration? what's baker's percentages? for example, i have100 pounds of flour.

and i say, makeit 65% hydration. that means it wouldbe 65 pounds of water. if i said, make it 2% salt, youalways go to your flour ratio. so that means ifi had 100 pounds, i would put two poundsof salt into that recipe. so this is comingtogether great. i'm going to add my oil. i'm going to let it mixfor about two more minutes and then we're ready togo-- maybe a minute a half.

there's not much. i could finish is onthe table, which i will. any other questions? audience: what type of oil? tony gemignani: extravirgin olive oil. i'm not looking for onethat's super-expensive, but i am lookingfor extra virgin. why do we add oil? one, it helps emulsify.

it binds everything together. but i'm not reallylooking for it for flavor, unless i'm looking forchicago-style pizza and i want 8%, 10%fat or oil or butter. then i may be lookingfor a different type. all right, so we'repretty good to go. could somebody grab this for me? great, so everyone can see. so i'm looking at this and i'mgoing to bring it together.

it's a little tacky,but tacky's good, right? so i'm finishing my doughon a nice hard surface. i'm developing the proteins. but i'm not going to overmix it. i definitely didn'tovermix it here. we didn't do a 10 minute batch. but when i look at it, andi'll let this pass-- pass this around, i'm making thatball nice and tight. you can kind of feelthat and pass it around.

wet dough, wet hands. it'll help. sometimes you think thatyou're going to grab flour. i'm not. want to throw this one at you? ready now? that was great. good job. made me mess up.

wet hands. sticky dough. you didn't get that, did you? he's good. he got it. he told me he was goingto get everything. audience: so chef tony,what kind of pizza is this dough good for? tony gemignani: this doughis good for sicilian style.

this dough is greatfor a classic italian. this dough is great for roman. it can be great for thin. it's great at 500, 550, 600. when you get to 650, youdon't need a browning agent. so 500 to 650-- i'm sorry. you need a browning agent. once you go after 650,then you need one. so for your home ovens,this dough's great for.

so i have some doughin front of me. but somebody wanted me to teachsomebody how to toss pizzas. who wants to learnhow to toss pizzas? i need two volunteers,two googlers. what do we got? all right, buddy. wanna come? i love it when theywear blue or black. it's perfect.

pizza guys wear white, geez. it's ok. who else do i have? male speaker: we haveone right over here. tony gemignani: wanna come? ok. i might be able to get one more. can you grab me some dough? male speaker: yeah, sure.

how many would you like, chef? tony gemignani: oh,two-- just one more set. if you put one more settogether, that would be great. what's your name? sheng: [inaudible]. tony gemignani: sheng? and? alice: alice. tony gemignani: alice?

cool. it's a little easieron a harder surface. let's grab our doughand let's push it down. i made specialdough for you guys. i tripled the salt on this tomake it extra, extra durable. don't eat this one. can have the one that fell, butyou don't want to eat this one. ok, so let's kindof stretch this out. and i'm kind of digginginto it like this.

so there's resistance in this. it's because of the triple salt. but i wanted to teachyou guys how to throw. so if you ever seen us onthe food network doing stuff, it's triple the salt. we're not that good. we're good. but it makes it alittle stronger. all right, buddy weneed some help here.

come on. they're hungry. male speaker: so chef, how didyou get into pizza throwing? tony gemignani: my brothergot me into the business 20, going on 24 years. won't give you that one. what did you do to this one? jesus. let me help you.

getting a workout at google. you have this one. let me teach you the basics. what hand to we writewith or draw with? sheng: right hand. tony gemignani: rightpalm-- want to go like this. just like that. so instead ofgoing like this, we want to throw it up in the air.

pretty good. so palm, two fists. palm, two fists. you're good. she's better than you. ok, more of a spin, though. see, she has the wrist action. spin it on your fingers. very hard trick.

it's like a basketball, sort of. go across the shoulders. here, i'll show you. right hand, go to ourleft, go to our right. see, everyone's watching, too. ok, the whip. practice that. you're making me look bad. i mean, i droppedit first, right?

ok, great. thank you guys. here, keep your doughs. keep your dough. so we're going tomake a pizza for you. it's a sausage and stout pizza. it's not in the book. a lot of people were upset thatthis pizza was not in the book. i kind of was developingit a little bit after.

so we have a dough thathas 20% guinness in it. so you saw my water mixture? let's take 20% out andsubstitute it with guinness. so we have that in the dough. it's honey malted, soi have honey and malt. so i have two browningagents, a little bit of spelt, whole wheat. or inside the dough,we have some semolina. so there's a lot going on.

this is a multi-grain dough. it has beer in it. there's some sausagethat we're going to add to this that has beer,guinness beer in the sausage. we have a guinness beer saltthat we're going to finish it. we have a guinness reduction. i mean, it's all aboutstout and multi-grain and it's pretty awesome. this is one of ourmost popular pizzas

at tony's, and this is the onei'm going to show you guys. and we're going to make onethat doesn't have any-- doesn't have any of the sausage. we're going to make avegetarian one, basically. so this is kindof football-shaped and we rolled those outinto a football shape. we're going to go aheadand stretch it out into a football shape. so what does that mean?

i'm going to stretch it out thisway instead of making it round. so when i look at thisdough, it's pretty hydrated. it's in the 70s. i'm going to be nice andgradual on this dough. i'm going to be niceand soft on this dough. i don't want to de-gas my dough. this is actuallythree-day-old dough. so the lighter youare on your pizza, the lighter your pizza will be.

if you see me onthe neapolitan line at tony's, i'mreally soft on it. if you see me on the sliceline, new york slice line, i'm digging into it. because that new york sliceshould be really tough when you fold. it cracks, but it doesn't break. and when you have a neapolitan,a true veraci pizza napolitana, it should be like apillow, be nice and airy.

so those two elementsare important. and when you look atmy lines at tony's, we have four pizzalines, seven ovens, 13 styles of pizza withdifferent dough recipes. it's confusing, but a lot oftimes you'll see one of my guys maybe help me from my slice linecoming on the neapolitan line and they're justdigging into it. i'm like, wait a minute. you got to be gentle with this.

you got to treat it like a lady. so we have 100% whole milkmozzarella, about six ounces. this is grande mozzarellathat i'm using. it's high in fat. it's the bestcheese you can buy. there's not really amore expensive mozzarella in the industry. you see a lot ofplaces that are ranked the top pizzerias in theindustry, nine out of ten

usually use grande. you can find it. some home users thinkyou can't find it, but you can find it, insome high-end grocery stores like dreger's,which is kind of nearby. you can find it in someother grocery stores too. so i'll do thevegetarian one first. we have some sauteed mushrooms. we have roasted peppers.

this pizza i kind ofalways like to go diagonal. it's the way i like to top it. you'll see the way i finish it. i always think that even mycut will be a diagonal cut. caramelized onions--any vegetarians here? ok, good. i was going to say, if there'snot, why am i doing it? no, good, good. we made special-- wemade it to a point

that we have somevegetarian pizzas. it's important. so sometimes whenyou make a pizza, you think everythinghas to go on before. not really. in the pizza business,and usually on a line, your finish line is asbig as your make line, meaning that the ingredientswill go on before and after. what's great about this isi use a lot of semolina.

and these gi metalpeels are awesome, because everythingfalls through it. so if you have a dirty oven, youwon't really with this kind of peel. i'll land it in that oven. we have it at what, 520? trying to get it at 520. we'll cook at sixminutes and six minutes. it's pretty good time here.

i'm going to cook it--if you look at this oven, i have two levels, thehighest and the lowest. we have reversedhalf sheet pans. we don't have stones. if i were cookingmaking pizzas at home, i would use a baking steel. it's a quarter inch. some of them are ahalf inch or one eighth of an inch piece ofsteel that you put in.

the recovery time is great. and it gets hot. or i would use my stone. or if you didn't have a stone,i would use a reverse baking sheet. so we have those flippedover in our oven. i have two. i just don't cook on one. in the book, i talk aboutcooking pizzas, starting on top

and then finishingon the bottom. so it's always goodto have two elements. like in the pizza business,when we put a pizza in, do we keep it there? we keep it thereabout 80% of the time and then we move it to ahotspot to finish that bottom. so we just don't haveone dedicated spot. so a lot of peoplejust buy one stone. really, you should investin two stones or two steels.

so we have our other pizza,our sausage, our onions. i'm going to add mycaramelized onions first. remember, there's noborders on these pizzas. i'm really making this pizzaor decorating this pizza all the ways to its ends. and when it comesto sausage, this is a sausage we make in house. i want to pinch inthe size of a dime. if i pinch in thesize of a quarter,

it may not cookin your home oven. so when you're using rawsausage, it's important. i don't like to pre-cookreally anything. you want that fat, that flavorto really ooze into your pizza. do you have anyquestions about anything? more tricks? audience: 00 flour. tony gemignani: say it again? audience: where canyou buy 00 flour?

tony gemignani: you can buyit at centralmilling.com. you can see it at fgpizza.com. even when you lookat a king arthur, they have a lancelotthat's good. it's a higher protein,higher gluten. i would look for that flour. giusto's makes a goodhigh performer flour. they're local. central milling isone of the best,

especially if you'reinto organics. they're one of thebest flour companies. they may make my 00 flour thata high gluten, high protein. so there's a lot ofgreat ones out there. i just really recommendgetting one and not just using an all purpose flour. it'll cook way better andit'll be all around better. so i have thisother pizza but i'm waiting to put this pieon the bottom shelf.

so i can just let it sit here. it's nice to have asurface like this. not so good to open up apizza on a surface like that. so marble, granite, stainlessare the perfect surfaces for pizza. so i did talk aboutfinishing ingredients. and what does that mean? well, we havecrushed red pepper. we have our salt, our guinnesssalt, some fresh mozzarella.

we have our fontinaand some onions. we're going to finish thatpizza with all these ingredients and then we have ourguinness reduction, which will give it thissweet, almost malty beer kind of flavor to it. it's been about fourminutes, give or take. i'm going to check in. we're cool. we have anothertwo minutes, then

i'm going to take it, flipit around, and then put it on the bottom. so we have q and a, wecan do some questions if you guys have any. male speaker: we've got aquestion in the back over there on the right. audience: it's not areally serious question. why did you decideto make it football shaped instead of round?

tony gemignani: you know,it's pretty hydrated. and usually, if a pizza'sreally hydrated and over 70, it's harder to make in a circle. so i'll say that we'll make themmore-- it's easier to open up. it kind of goes down the routesof a roman style pizza as well. and roman-style pizzasare really hydrated. they could be thickor they could be thin. so that's the reason really. it's a little tougher tomake it into a circle.

some people say theywant to-- it's artisan, and that's what they want. it's not artisan. it just means that theycan't make it into a circle. i'll admit it. audience: do you experimentmuch with different beer styles in your dough? tony gemignani: yeah. i like the darker beers.

i mean, i use guinness forthis, but the darker beers go a lot further-- anchorsteam, anchor porter. yeah, some of those beers ialways tend to lean towards. i don't want itto just be tasting like you're eating beer. i want it to tastea hint of beer. i want to say, ok, there'sbeer in it, then the salt. i don't want it tobe super, you know, like you're drinking a bottle ofguinness or a pint of guinness.

but i want to make sure thatyou kind of know that there's something in there. does that makes sense? audience: when you do along ferment like this, are you de-gassingeveryday, or do you just leave it for three days? tony gemignani: i'mletting it ferment. so am i de-gassing? i got my dough, i balledit, i put it in my fridge.

am i taking it outand de-gassing it? i only have one reallybench rest, cut and ball it and then let it fermentfor two days, take it out. and one rule of thumb isso see my pizza right here? i could pop, move this a littlebit, move my ingredients over. i'm going to turn itaround and move it right into my bottom deck. you guys can see it. so i'm not de-gassing andre-balling and reballing and

de-gassing. i have a starter init that's definitely going to give it flavor. i bench rest it,meaning that after it was done mixing i let itsit for about 30 minutes, cut and ball it. i'm going to put it in my fridgefor one day, two days, maybe three days. am i going to take that doughout and use it right away?

no, i'm going to bring itout to room temperature like i did here. and since i let it come outto room temperature for three hours, well, i was in thecar for, like, three hours. so like five hours. one rule of thumb, don't putcold dough in a hot oven. so you want to bring thatdough up to room temp. audience: i have a question. some pizzerias boast,like, a 1200 degree oven

and cook for 60 seconds. what do you think about that? tony gemignani: yeah,i have several of them. i cook at-- my tony's pizzanapolitano, or neapolitan, we took at 900 degrees. then we have our [inaudible]and we cook it at 1,000 degrees. yeah, straight. i celebrate everystyle of pizza. so when it comes to me,if chicago's done right,

if new york's done right,if neopolitan's done right, i kind of celebrate them all. i'm going to putone now on the top. that other one hasabout two minutes, and i'll show you how tofinish that on the bottom. but yeah, you know, itdepends on what you like. like i said, icelebrate all of them, so i can't say that i lovechicago and i hate neapolitan. i think if it's done right,then it's pretty awesome.

we have so many ovens. kind of crazy. audience: how do you decidewhen to use pizza sauce? tony gemignani: how do idecide when to use pizza sauce? it depends on what i'm making. sometimes you don't need it. if you ever have white pizzas,pizzas that have no sauce, they're just as goodas pizzas with sauce. sometimes my reductionsi use-- i tend to i

guess-- how can you say it. when i use reductions a lot,like a fig reduction or a fig compote or if i'musing, like, an orange or if i'm doing amaybe even a balsamic or if i'm doing a guinness, ikind of treat that as my sauce. so it has that--that's what i do. so whenever i use a lotof reductions or compotes and stuff like that, i tendto get away from the sauces and use that as my sauce,if that makes any sense.

kind of like this one. i treat that guinnessreduction as the sauce. so this pizza's just about done. turned out prettygood for these ovens. not bad. nice bottom. thing i always say is,i got a great bottom. so something i always say. so i'm going to cut throughit, because i want to finish

my pizza after i cut it. a lot of people will finish itand make this beautiful pizza and then they'll cut rightthrough it and ruin it all. i don't want to do that. so i'm going to addsome fresh mozzarella. audience: are youalways [inaudible]? tony gemignani: yeah,do i cut it immediately? that's a good question. i do.

i cut it right away and iwant to serve it right away. especially neapolitan-- whenyou see a neapolitan pizza and you're cooking it. you cringe when you're watchingsomebody eat it or they haven't eaten it for like two minutes and it's on the tableand they're talking. then it's five minutes. then it's 10 minutes. and i'll go grabthe pizza and then

i'll make them a new pizza. i'm all, here you go. i literally, like--it bothers you, especially neapolitan,because that's the pizza you want to eat fast and first. sicilian style willactually sit well. so we have a crushed red pepper. we have that beer salt. i'm heavy on the handwith this beer salt.

some green onions--we got some more here. andrew perlich: so tony, wherecan you get that beer salt? tony gemignani: you'regoing to make it. andrew perlich: oh, really? tony gemignani:everything's made. andrew perlich:how do you make it? tony gemignani: i'll tell you. hold on one second. so we have our fontina.

so we use some nicetriangle pieces of fontina. it's very geometricalwhen you look at this. then we'll finish itwith the guinness. if you went ahead and reducedguinness down, and then once you reduced it down andit became somewhat of a glaze, you would add the saltto it, sea salt to it, and keep cooking thesalt into the guinness. once it reduces down, you'll goahead and have a nice guinness salt.

i'll let you guys try it ifwe have a little bit extra. so this is a guinness reduction. when you reduce guinness,it's really nice and sweet and malty. so this is a great pizzayou guys will love. there you go. so how are we looking here? about two minutes on top. and then we'regoing to finish it

on the bottom for anothermaybe four minutes. we're almost done here. you guys have any questions? andrew perlich: got anotherquestion in the back over there. tony gemignani: anyonewant to try a slice? audience: the bubble thatcame up on your pizza there-- audience: the bubble thatcame up on your first pizza-- is that something yougenerally try to avoid?

tony gemignani: no,not for this pizza. there's certain pizzasi tend to avoid it, like on my sliced pizzas. this one, i was so softto it, i expected it. if i didn't seebubbles on this pizza, it means somebodywas too hard on it. why do we getbubbles on a pizza, other than beingvery light on it? one is that you'redough could be cold.

cold dough bringslots of bubbles. this was a bubble thatreally came from my hands. i wanted to have that. i wanted this pizza to lookthick but really kind of be nice and thin. even when i lookat it here, it's nice and malty and thinand light and airy. i wanted it to be anice, aerated pizza. so it depends on the style.

if there was no bubbleson this, i open up my door at the restaurant,i look in my oven and i see a sausage orstout, i would go to the guy and say, you were waytoo hard on that pizza. i expected to have bubbles. audience: did you have tomanipulate the dough like you did spinning it aroundwith all of them, or do different doughshave different techniques? tony gemignani: different doughshave different techniques.

sometimes you'll roll doughout if you wanted it thin. sometimes you dock it,which is little spikes that you'd roll over it forthin crust pizzas, so the gas. sometimes you wanta thicker rim. sometimes you want athinner rim [inaudible]. so it really dependson your hands. there's a differenttechnique of slapping, which is a neapolitan technique. or if you're picking it up offand you're stretching a 22 inch

pie around the edges. so all the pieces have littletechniques that are important. lot of times i get guys thatcome in that have no technique and they're just doingall these different steps and it kills you. it makes you want to cringe. audience: can you briefly walkus through a simple red sauce? tony gemignani: asimple red sauce? so a simple pizza sauce--typically you don't cook it.

a lot of people think thatyou have to cook your sauce. you don't. let's say you have threedifferent types-- a ground tomato, a plumtomato, and a paste. your paste is for sweetness. your ground is your base. and if you want texture,hand-crushed plum tomatoes. so does that make sense? if you just want itto be ground tomatoes,

something light, on a lighter,like on a thinner pizza, that's fine. if you're looking for a sicilianstyle or chicago deep dish, then i would be addingthat paste, definitely, to sweeten it naturally. and i would add crushedtomatoes to make it more hearty. so the thicker the pie,the thicker the sauce. the thinner the pie,the thinner the sauce. oregano, garlic, salt are thethree standard ingredients--

pressed, garlicnot chopped garlic where you're eating garlic. just the essence of garlic. torn basil leaves, salt--you always have to have salt. oregano is always nice. you can over-sauce your pizzas. you don't want toover-sauce your pizzas. i mean, over-spice our pizzas. we don't want toover-spice our sauce.

you want to tastetomato, and then there's a little seasoning. when you make your sauce, youalways use it the next day, or about 6 to 8 hours later. you never make yoursauce and then use it, because you always tastethe seasoning first, not the tomato. it needs to set. sauce has to set.

it's important, becauseyou'll be all, man, this is way too salty. and you know what? in four hours, it willbe totally different. i was wondering if you did anydessert pizzas, and if you did, what are the differences inthe dough and ingredients? tony gemignani: so do i doany dessert pizzas, and are there differences in the dough? not necessarily.

you could do a specialdough recipe for desserts. but it's really thetoppings that make it. i kind of found over the yearsthat you don't need a specialty dessert recipe when you canjust do what you want on top. dessert pizzas kind ofare like the first things you do when youstart making pizzas. those are the things thatyou start experimenting with, like nutella orbananas or triple berry and stuff like that.

yeah, i don't thinkyou need to do anything special for dessert. my first book"pizza," i wrote it. we had a special recipe for it. as i get into it now, i canmake any great dessert pizza just right out of dough. this dough is great ifyou fry it and you make a zeppoli into it. it's pretty awesome,where you just

toss it in powdered sugar orsugar and a little cinnamon. so it's great dough to fry with. audience: great. thank you. tony gemignani: this is themaster dough with starter. audience: do you have apreference for coal or wood pizza? coal or wood? i like them both right now.

coal, you know, we're theonly coal oven, i think, that's out here. my new yorker pie, or my tomatopie out of the coal oven, it doesn't really getany better than that. but it depends. you get bored,and so you'll say, oh, this is myfavorite pizza now. you'll start doing it a lot. detroit-style pizzais really great.

if you guys everhad detroit style, we're of the only guysthat has detroit out here. that's a great pizza. you should try that oneif you guys come in. so this one's just about done. we're just finishing the bottom. and we're going to finishit the same way we did here. so you guys got it? pretty good?

you're all experts now? i'd definitely like tothank everyone here. and especially google. it's my secondtime here, but it's been a lot of fun--lot of great questions. and it's a prettyawesome campus, so thanks for inviting me. andrew perlich: allright, everybody join me in thankingchef tony gemignani.

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